Imagine waking up early in the morning, your bed gently swaying from side to side in a soothing, rhythmic manner, while your ears pick up the muffled creaking of ropes and wood. As you step out on deck, the dazzling brilliance of the Greek sun greets you, accompanied by a gentle breeze. Looking out to sea, you see the waters of the Aegean, shifting from the deep, impenetrable dark blue of the horizon to a shimmering turquoise closer to shore.
Looking around, you find yourself anchored in a secluded cove, far from roads, cities and crowds. This is a place that has remained unchanged through time. The coastline is lined with rugged cliffs that plunge dramatically into the azure waters below, encircling a small sandy beach. The air is filled with the scent of saltwater mixed with the aroma of fresh herbs.
The overall ambiance exudes serene beauty, where time appears to slow down, allowing the natural world to take center stage. You can hear the waves gently lapping against your boat and crashing against the nearby rocks, the loud chirping of cicadas from the shore, seagulls as they soar overhead and If you focus a bit, you might hear the distant, gentle tinkling of goat bells.
What I’ve described isn’t a fantasy; it’s a genuine experience, when you sail with a small boat around the Dodecanese islands. These islands have been sculpted by millennia of geological activity and the relentless forces of the sea. Erosion from wind and waves has carved dramatic coastlines, creating rugged cliffs, secluded coves, and sandy beaches.
Historically, the sea has served as both a barrier and a bridge. The islands’ maritime position made them strategic points for trade, exploration, and military conquest. Ancient civilizations, such as the Minoans and Greeks, used these sea routes to connect with the broader Mediterranean world, influencing and being influenced by various cultures. In medieval times, this strategically significant archipelago was under the control of the Byzantine Empire, benefiting from the empire’s stability and economic strength. This period saw the construction of numerous churches and monasteries, reflecting the islands’ religious and cultural vitality.
The 14th century marked a pivotal change when the Knights of St. John, seized control of Rhodes and several neighboring islands in 1309 and brought a blend of Western European and local influences, evident in the Gothic architecture and fortifications they constructed. The Ottomans began ruling the Dodecanese Islands in 1522, establishing stability while imposing taxes and conscription. Despite these burdens, local autonomy and religious freedom allowed Christian and Muslim communities to coexist. The islands prospered in trade and agriculture, and significant fortifications were constructed. Their rule was briefly interrupted by the Venetians (1570) and the Greek independence movement (1820s), but the Dodecanese were left out of the new Greek State that formed after the 1821 Revolution and remained under Turkish control until Italy took over the group in 1912 – without Kastelorizo. Not until 1947 were the Dodecanese islands finally incorporated into the modern state of Greece. This maritime connectivity has left a rich cultural imprint on the islands, evident in their architecture, traditions, and local cuisine.
The largest island of the archipelago is Rhodes renowned for its historical significance, stunning landscapes and pristine beaches. It’s history is prominent in the Acropolis of Lindos, an ancient citadel offering breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea. It’s most famous landmark though, is the medieval Old Town of Rhodes, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Enclosed by robust fortifications, it houses the Palace of the Grand Master, an impressive Gothic structure built by the Knights of St. John.
Some of my personal favorites are Nisyros, Symi, Patmos and Astypalaia. Nisyros stands out among the other islands due to its unique volcanic features and distinct natural landscape, after all it is Greece’s youngest volcano and still active. A walk around the the aproximetely 4000-5000 year’s old Stefanos is an amazing experience. This is one of the largest and best-preserved hydrothermal craters in the word, with a diameter ranging from 260m to 330m and a depth of 27m.
Arriving in Symi, you are left speechless. As the ship approaches you can make out only rocks and thorny bushes, and just when you are wondering where the port is, it appears in front of you. Two-story, high-ceilinged colorful neoclassical homes, with tall windows and doors are built amphitheatrically on the slopes and create a striking contrast against the blue backdrop of the sea and sky. When you walk in the main town, the cobblestone courtyards and pebbled mosaics give an aura of nobility to the island while the bougainvillea flowers add a colorful touch to the romantic atmosphere.
Patmos, is famous for its religious significance and tranquil beauty. Known as the “Island of the Apocalypse,” it is where Saint John the Theologian is believed to have written the Book of Revelation. The Monastery of Saint John, a UNESCO World Heritage site, dominates the island’s landscape. The serene atmosphere and historical sites of the main town, attract pilgrims and tourists alike, making Patmos a unique blend of spiritual significance and natural beauty.
Astypalaia is often called the “Butterfly of the Aegean” due to its unique shape. What is striking about the island is the blend of Dodecanesian and Cycladic architecture a marriage of traditions evident in other aspects of Astypalaia’s character as well. Houses tend to be tall and narrow a bit like towers each accommodating a different family. Dodecanesian features such as pastel hues, large windows and a tendency of ornamentation are mixed in with Cycladic elements such as rectangular lines, the use of white and smaller structural openings.
Written by Dimitris Papageorgiou
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