On the edge
You can wander through its stone-paved alleys, marveling at it’s whitewashed dwellings and enjoying it’s famous sunset, but a bird’s eye view of Oia put things in a different perspective. From this angle, it’s clear that the beauty you see around you is the result of what was an intensely violent volcanic eruption, and even though no repeat performance is expected at any time soon, the island is sitting on top of a still active volcano. Yes humans have found a way to live on the edge of a caldera, but their coexistence with nature is possible only because nature allows it – and that’s exactly what makes this island irresistible.
Tangled architecture
The settlements on Santorini probably wouldn’t be as charming if it weren’t for the architecturally unique yposkafa. These are structures, mostly private dwellings, that have been dug out of the volcanic rock, either partly or entirely. As a result, the villages are architecturally “tangled”- private and public expenses blend together and one home’s balcony forms the roof of another.
In the midst of this complexity, however, there is a simplicity as well. The soft clean lines and the absence of right angles lend to the structures an air of rudimentary sculpture, while the magical light of Santorini, which changes hourly, seems to bring them in life. Despite the fact that these buildings were originally created by poor unskilled laborers as simple shelters against the elements, without much concern for architecture or style, they have become aesthetic paradigms.
Earth, wind and water
Unlike other Cycladic islands Santorini doesn’t boast many easy to reach beaches. The nature of its coastline makes most of them inaccessible by land. The few that do exist, however, are uniquely enjoyable. Perhaps, the most dramatic of them is Vlychada. It’s black sands, which stress along the shore for a considerable distance, affording spots with welcome isolation; its crystalline waters, which reach precipitous depths just a few feet from the store; and its majestic volcanic stone cliffs, sculpted over time by wind and water, all combined to make these beach unforgettable.
Force of nature
in springtime, even Nea Kameni, Santorini’s volcano islet, sets its look of unworldly ruggedness and dons a cloak of winl shrubs and flowers that grow from the crags of its oldest formation. But whatever time of year you are in Santorini, you absolutely must visit this young island, with the newest volcanic surfaces in the eastern Mediterranean, formed just 67 years ago. A listed natural monument, an active volcano that has given us three-year absence in the last century, an official geological park since 2003, and ever popular spot for catamarans and day cruises, Nea Kameni is undisputably an authentic experience. It’s uneven terrain would taste your mettle, the steam vents near the central crater that eject gases at temperatures of as hot as 95 Celsius will wow, you and it’s thermal springs will invite you to dive into the water.
Haute ingredients
Unirrigated and wind whipped, Santorini’s signature agricultural products survive thanks to the islands rich volcanic soil, feeding on minerals as they patiently await a rare rainfall. The PDO cherry tomato, the yellow peas known locally as fava, the white eggplant and other local produce are flavorsome stars of a much admired local cuisine. Ironically, however, these plants are facing another battle for survival, as Santorini’s farmland comes under pressure from construction and tourist activity. They are still farmers fighting against the odds to keep their land and their crops, but production is falling. Today, there are many top saves hard at work investing their considerable talent and imagination to please the palates of the islands well-heeled clientele. Just imagine what this artist could do if the wonderfull native produce were still abundantly available; “haute cuisine” will take on a new meaning.
Victorious wines
Why does everyone loves Assyrtiko so much? This Santorini variety is born out of a unique combination of factors: There is no other place on earth where you will find such ancient vines growing in a mineral rich volcanic soil under climatic conditions like those on the arid, windswept island. The Assyrtiko grape has adapted perfectly to this harsh environment, taking everything it needs from the terroir, but there is more than just the plant at work here. The winemakers had developed and vine training technique used nowhere else, the koulouri, or basket, as is so perfectly adapted to such extreme conditions of survival. To this, we must also add in singular cultivation technique that the island’s vine growers have been developing for centuries. It is a painstaking system that results in vines that look more like works of sculpture than products of nature, yet one which allows the vines to emerge victorious from the incessant battle against the strong winds and the searing sun.
Written by Dimitris Papageorgiou
